From Tarun Tahiliani's Tarakini collection to Falguni and Shane Peacock’s first menswear collection, here’s what you missed at Lakme Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2018.
The veteran designer is known for his glamorous displays, and this season was no different. His ‘Tarakini’ collection brought the romance and fantasy of florals and the cosmos to his signature layered yet weightless silhouettes.
A raised black ramp with glass enclosures and moving light beams created a galactic ambience to suit the mood. “We set out to create clothes that let women be comfortable and really have fun while still being as glamorous as they felt inside. All in keeping with the global trend of movement and lightness, and true equality for women. Our first Ready-To-Wear collection of the season takes inspiration from the constellations of the Milky Way and their lightness of non-pattern and abstraction, to render a gossamer of floating elegance,” says the designer.
On the ramp were traditional and fusion wear crafted using a symphony of gossamer fabrics, iridescent embroidery with creative use of ombré and fine embellishments displayed the beauty of constellations with astronomy charts. Chantilly lace, Chanderi, cotton, georgette, crêpe and Italian tulle were enhanced with bead and Resham work, as well as the sparkle of crystals and sequins. Detailing like lattice work, hand painting and digital textile printing added to the layers.
Tahiliani’s show stopper was actress Kriti Sanon, who wore a masterfully crafted nude tulle lehenga, choli and draped dupatta that glittered with the constellation of multi-coloured stars.
Falguni and Shane Peacock
For the first time, the duo – best known for high-octane glamour and for dressing Bollywood’s leading ladies – showcased a collection of menswear. The show started unexpectedly, with actress Sonakshi Sinha strutting out in a black embroidered jacket with fluid plants and a bralet.
Titled ‘The Louche’, the collection is aimed at dapper millennials and plays with an unconventional colour palette – moving from light greys and pastel pinks to blue, black and charcoal. Pink was seen in everything from disco sportswear suits to graphic silk bombers and biker jackets. Shell suits were deconstructed, while ‘FSP Millennials’ was branded on the backs of shirts.
Skin-tight trousers and leather jackets lent a cool ‘70s vibe, while fur collared jackets and capes added a formal, chic look. They were teamed with embellished velvet slippers that lent a new age dandy image.
The silhouette was kept to one or two-button closures, two side vents, with ankle-length trousers, at times with white side stripes to add a sporty but formal touch. Fabrics varied from brocade and velvet to suiting and sequinned sheeting.
Bollywood director Karan Johar, with a quirky fashion sense of his own, made for a fitting showstopper. He confidently strutted down the ramp in a silver/black glittering peacock embellished jacket with white side-striped pants, a waist coat and topped the look with silver hair.
The designer is known for celebrating indigenous textiles and weaves in full flourish, and this season was no different. As per usual, his show, titled ‘Neel’, was a memorable experience with music and dance, this time courtesy singer Hansika Iyer and Kathak dancer Barkha Patel.
If anything was different, it was the colour palette. Usually known to play with bright colours, Gaurang this time devoted his collection to shades of indigo. He is said to have spent nearly 18 months on developing the textiles for this collection, working tirelessly on indigo dyeing in the interiors of Gujarat, sometimes spending a month on getting a particular shade right.
With the hand-spun yarns procured from different clusters in India, Gaurang innovated on his favourite weaving technique of Jamdaani and incorporated indigo in Kota, Benaras, Patan Patola, Paithani, Khadi, Kanjivaram and Dhaka weaves. He also added a profusion of the most gorgeous block prints like Ajrakh, Dabu, Bagh, Bandhani, Shibori, Leheriya and Batia. The final touch was provided by stunning embroidery starting with Chikankari, Kashidakari, Aari, Rabari, Kasuti, Parsi Gara and ended on Kantha.
Menswear was regal and elegant with dhotis, kurta, sherwanis and jackets in Bandhani prints and embroidery on the lovely rich fabrics.
Rajesh Pratap Singh
Collaborating with Tencel, Rajesh Pratap Singh came up with a line called Tencel 1.0, which was an experiment from the yarn and fibre stage to innovative designs and fabric developments to bring about a fashion for everything sustainable.
Singh explored how sustainability could become a part of the fashion industry with 100 per cent Tencel yarns blended with silk and stainless steel in eye-catching weaves like hopsack, waffle and herringbone.
Colour blocking was a mainstay of the collection, while a mélange of hand block, digital as well as screen prints completed the list of techniques used. The sari inspired dresses, skirts and quaint dhoti bottoms were in a colour story that moved from popsicles like coral to almost fuchsia, Indian pink, steel grey, mountain blue and pristine white.
Opening with a white double-breasted jacket and shaded orange/red skirt, the show was a riot of summer colours. Extended shoulders for sack minis, horizontal railroad striped pants with pink blazer, wrap/draped maxi and blazer, with track pants added a athleisure look. Hot, red, angular long coats with a skirt/dress and the double-breasted, red waffle coat dress were completely on trend.
Men’s wear was comfort oriented with fluid trousers, flared pants, pin-tucked jackets and all-white summer suits. Colour blocked brown/grey, double-breasted jackets with wide draped pants gave interesting fashion directions for the trendy male dresser. Sharply cut blazers and an extra-long grey coat were a little adventurous for the season.
‘Songs of Summer’ is the title for the celebrated designer’s new bridal range, using tall beautiful trees, flowers, butterflies, gently swaying branches and flitting fireflies as inspiration for an ethereal collection.
The luxurious line features a melody of gentle pastel hues like blush, sage, powder blue, yellow and of course pure white that were inspired by the beauty of the flowers in a summer garden.
Recreating the magic of the ‘50s, Dongre was inspired to unveil midi skirts, jumpsuits, cool wrap tops, elegant long-line jackets, trendy tunics and stylish cropped tops. The embellishments were delicate, with dashes of zardosi and gota patti, which she is known to favour. The classic lehengas and draped saris make for ideal options for any modern bride’s wedding trousseau.
The lehengas featured the designer’s trademark pockets and the collection was utterly wearable for brides and grooms who want to wear the most striking creations on their big day. Menswear was elegant with kurtas, jackets, sherwanis and bundies with discreet embroidery.
Actor Shahid Kapoor and his wife, Mira, were Dongre’s showstoppers, and they looked elegant in their coordinated finery. Shahid wore a white, embroidered, regal sherwani, while Mira looked dazzling in a white lehenga with prints and gota patti work, teamed with an ornate choli and dupatta.
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